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Flush Cuts - Improper Tree Trimming Techniques

3/14/2021

12 Comments

 
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Tree trimming is an essential component of tree care in an urban setting. Limbs need to be removed over streets and sidewalks, away from roofs and gutters, or even in the yard if the homeowner needs to be able to walk under the tree. Removing these limbs may seem straightforward, and one might be tempted to remove them in such a way that it appears the limb never existed, by way of cutting it completely flush with the trunk. This is what we call a "flush cut" and it is an improper pruning technique that can cause serious harm to your tree. 

Trees have a response to wounding, coined "Compartmentalization of Decay in Trees" or "CODIT." A tree "walls" off decay in four layers of bark tissue, preventing decay from moving vertically, radially and tangentially. When a wound occurs naturally, the tree gets to work using its own defense mechanism to keep decay-causing fungi from spreading. When a wound occurs during routine tree pruning (yes - it's a still a wound!), a trained arborist can take steps to ensure the tree is given its best shot at using its CODIT system.

​Maintaining the branch collar is critical in tree pruning and allows the tree to form a proper callus around the wound. The illustration to the right shows a clear swelling of tissue at the branch collar as the tree is preparing to shed a dead limb naturally. Trees know what they're doing! When we prune live limbs, we can use this as a model for where to make our cut - by not cutting into the branch collar. The branch bark ridge is not always obvious, and when it is not easy to identify the collar, we consider it best practice to come away from the trunk slightly. It would be better to leave more of a stub than it would be to cut into the branch collar. 

In general (and certainly not in all cases), a proper pruning cut will result in a circular wound or as close to a circle as possible. In the photos, you can see the elliptical shape of the cut where the flush cut was made parallel to the trunk, but not perpendicular to the branch, resulting in a vertical ellipse where we can see the branch collar was removed. 

If you are unsure where you make a proper pruning cut, it's best to consult a certified arborist. You can read more about DIY Pruning in a previous blog post.

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SOURCES
  • Compartmentalization of Decay in Trees, Bartlett Tree Experts
    https://www.bartlett.com/resources/compartmentalization-of-decay-in-trees.pdf
  • University of Iowa Extension & Outreach
    https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/faq/when-pruning-trees-it-desirable-make-flush-cuts#:~:text=Flush%20cuts%20are%20pruning%20cuts,collar%20and%20branch%20bark%20ridge.
12 Comments

Squirrels & Trees, Love & Hate.

1/21/2021

3 Comments

 
Today is Squirrel Appreciation Day! Squirrels are easy to love for their cunning personalities and cuteness, but they can just as easily become a nuisance when they turn to your trees for nutrition and habitat. Nevertheless, squirrels play an important role in our ecosystem and we can learn to coexist in harmony!
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"A whole appreciation day, just for me?"

Bark stripping

PictureStripped bark from squirrels.
In years when food is scarce for squirrels (such as last year when the maple trees did not produce many seeds due to a late frost), they can resort to eating bark to meet their nutritional needs. If this is happening, we recommend offering an alternative food and water source, such as nuts and seeds, to deter them from stripping the bark. Stripping bark can expose the xylem of the tree, leaving it susceptible to insects and diseases. They can also potentially girdle a tree and cause long term damage.

Research indicates that bark stripping has a higher occurrence following a "mast year" where trees produce a bumper crop of fruits and seeds, which may correlate with a higher population of juvenile squirrels.  Here is an excellent article from Ohio State University about bark stripping.
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EATING TREE BUDS

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The tender buds of a growing tree limb are a tasty treat for squirrels, but it can stunt the growth a tree and cause disfigurement. Generally speaking, this type of damage is only a nuisance and control is generally not needed.
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tree trimming to protect young squirrels

In the United States, it's best to trim your trees between November and January to avoid nesting seasons. Of course, if the tree trimming must take place during nesting, our arborists are careful not to disturb nests. Plenty of foliage should be left around the nests for their protection from predators and the elements.
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Keeping squirrels out of your house

Are squirrels finding their way into your home? They can easily jump up to 10 feet from a tree onto your roof and find their way into attics, crawl spaces and chimneys to seek warmth and protection. Let your arborist know if your objective is to prevent this from happening and your tree can be trimmed to clear the house by more than 10 feet. Of course, our best advice is to find where the squirrels are entering and secure the openings.
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Baby squirrels ("kittens") rescued from a tree.
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Jaime making a new friend on a job site.
3 Comments

Pine needle drop - Normal or not?

10/28/2019

9 Comments

 
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Yes, they might be called "evergreens," but not even conifers keep their needles forever. Why are they called evergreens? Because the tree holds onto its needles for longer than a year before letting them go. With new needles coming in, the tree appears to always be keeping its needles. It's not unlike your hair. Your hair is constantly falling out, but new hairs are also constantly growing in (thank goodness!) Needle drop sometimes happens without us even noticing, since it's the inner needles that fall. Needle drop in Eastern White Pines, like the one pictured above, tends to be more obvious than other species.

Here is a handy chart from the University of Nebraska's Backyard Farmer of how long common pine trees grown in Nebraska hold onto their needles:
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TWO YEARS

Eastern white pine
Jack pine (2-4 yrs.)
Scotch pine (2-4 yrs.)

THREE YEARS

Korean pine
Japanese Black pine
(3-5 yrs.)
Japanese Red pine
Japanese White pine
Lacebark pine
Macedonian pine
Ponderosa pine
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FOUR YEARS

Austrian pine
Red pine
Swiss Stone pine

FIVE YEARS

Bosnian pine
Mugo pine

When do I need to worry about needle drop?

If a tree is stressed from things like drought, root damage, insects or diseases, needle drop will be exacerbated and you'll want to work to reduce those stressors. That's what we're here for! A Certified Arborist can diagnose the issue or simply give you the reassurance you're looking for that your tree is healthy and happy just doin' it's thang. 

If your tree is starting to look like the photos below, you'll definitely need to investigate further. The trees below are suffering from Diplodia tip blight and Dothistroma needle blight - both of which can be remedied with a series of fungicide sprays in the spring. If you aren't sure, it never hurts to set up a free consultation to put your mind at ease when you're trying to protect your trees.
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NOT normal!

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Eastern White Pine suffering from Diplodia Tip Blight, exacerbated by drought. Photo by Ariana Brocious, NET News
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Austrian Pine suffering from Dothistroma Needle Blight. Photo: Jill O'Donnell, MSU Extension.
FREE ARBORIST CONSULTATION
9 Comments

Japanese Beetles are BACK, and we can help!

7/3/2018

32 Comments

 

Background

Japanese beetles are a fairly new pest to Omaha, but they're been in the U.S. since as early as the 1920s. This iridescent copper and green beetle feeds on over 200 species of plants and trees, though are most commonly found in Nebraska on lindens, birches, elms, fruiting trees, roses, and buckthorns. Rarely will the feeding kill a tree (unless it’s young or already stressed), however it’s a major aesthetic issue, and repeated years of heavy feeding does reduce the plants’ energy reserves, setting it up for decline down the road.
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Life Cycle

The beetles spend most of their lives as grubs in the soil. Adult beetles emerge in late June to early July, and begin feeding at the tops of trees. These early feeding beetles emit pheromones as they munch on the leaves, causing others to congregate. As they feed, they move down the tree, causing the leaves to be ‘skeletonized’, leaving just the veins behind. These lacy leaves then commonly drop from the tree, making it look like fall has arrived in the middle of summer.
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When not preoccupied with feeding, the beetles find time to mate and lay eggs (what a life!). Eggs are laid near the soil surface, and the newly hatched larvae tunnel in late summer to overwinter in the soil until the next season. While the adults feed solely on trees and shrubs, the larvae feed on grass roots and can cause problems for the turf. Brown patches in the yard that easily pull up are a sign of grub issues. On top of that, it’s not uncommon for animals such as skunks, opossums, and raccoons to dig in the yard for a tasty treat.
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Control

On a positive note, Japanese beetles can be controlled to minimize damage. If you’ve had issues with grubs killing the lawn, you or your lawn company should put down a granular insecticide early in the spring to help kill grubs. Most professional lawn services have this built into their maintenance program. This can help your lawn but won’t do much for your trees, as the beetles will still fly in from neighboring sites. 

Treatment for trees is best done preventatively using systemic insecticides placed in the soil that travel up through the roots and into the leaf tissue, thus killing the beetles as they feed. It's important to note that none of these treatments act as repellants. The beetles must feed on the leaves in order to die. The timing and chemical required depend on the type of tree or plant.  Birches, elms, buckthorns, and other non-flowering trees and shrubs can be treated with imidacloprid in the spring once a year, at least a month prior to beetle emergence. This product is not registered for flowering trees, however, as it has been associated with the decline in pollinator populations. For lindens and fruit trees, acephate can be injected in the soil at the time of beetle emergence, which can provide 4-6 weeks of control. For last minute applications when systemic insecticides will be too slow to be effective, foliar sprays will be effective. Sprays with bifenthrin or permethrin will provide two weeks of control, and will need to be repeated until mid-to-late August when the beetles stop feeding. (Yes, Arbor Aesthetics offers all of these treatment options!)
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Traps: Are they effective?

A common question is whether or not to use pheromone traps in the yard. The short answer is NO. Don’t do it. Studies have shown the traps bring in more beetles than they catch, and will draw in beetles in from an even larger area.

Dylan Willis, Plant Healthcare Specialist
B.S. Forest Science
ISA Certified Arborist​
32 Comments

Removing your ash tree? Don't wait until it's dead!

11/7/2017

23 Comments

 
Now that the Emerald Ash Borer has made its way to Omaha, homeowners with ash trees have an important decision to make: remove the tree, or preserve the tree. The solution isn't always simple, and we have conversations with each of our clients, taking into account each of their unique circumstances and needs. During these conversations, we find our clients' plans fall into one of these four categories:
  1. Treat the tree indefinitely. 
    Is the tree in a good location? Is the tree in good health? Not too old, or too young (and easily replaceable?) Does the tree add significant value to your property or hold sentimental value? 
  2. Treat the tree to delay its death, with plans to remove it later.
    Plant a new tree now so that by the time the ash tree needs to be removed, you have a well-established tree acting in its place. Or perhaps you have several ash trees and cannot afford to remove them all at once. 
  3. Remove the tree now. 
    Take the tree down now if the tree isn't worth saving or you do not wish to invest in preserving your tree.
  4. Wait until the tree dies, then remove it. 
    ​

    HOLD UP!

    ​Waiting until your ash tree dies may seem like a reasonable solution. You invest no money in its preservation, and might get several more years out of it before you have to say your goodbyes. But please...
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DO NOT WAIT UNTIL YOUR TREE DIES TO REMOVE IT!

Dead and dying ash trees quickly become brittle. Experts have found that ash trees, even in early states of decline, are a signifiant liability not only to the homeowner, but to the workers removing the tree.

​Trees that display a canopy loss of just 30% should not be climbed. What does this mean for homeowners?

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DEAD TREES ARE MORE EXPENSIVE TO REMOVE

The longer you wait to remove your tree, the higher the price tag. Healthy trees can be climbed or accessed in a straight forward manner. Dead or dying trees that have become brittle are extremely dangerous to remove and may require expensive equipment, such as a crane. That cost is passed onto the homeowner.

​Oftentimes, the cost of tree removal isn't based on the tree's size alone. It is based on the tree's location and accessibility, the amount of material being hauled away, and the risk associated with removing it. Is the tree near a structure? Does the tree pose a great-than-average risk to the workers removing it?


SAVE MONEY; SAVE A TREE CARE WORKER

Tree removal is a risky business. In 2016 alone, 92 fatalities were reported to the Tree Care Industry Association. This number has increased every year since 2013, and it is no coincidence that as EAB sweeps across the U.S., dead and dying ash trees are changing the scene and increasing risk for tree care companies and their workers.  

This risk is not limited to the tree care company - it could extend to the homeowner, as well. That's why it is ESSENTIAL that the tree care company you hire carries liability insurance AND worker's compensation insurance, so that if an injury or fatality were to occur, you are protected. Always ask to see current insurance certificates before hiring a tree care company, and understand that a company providing a low-ball bid may not be adequately covered by insurance. If you are collecting bids and one is significantly lower than the others, consider it a red flag and ask questions. ​
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WATCH FOR CANOPY DIE-BACK

One telltale sign of EAB infestation is canopy die-back. Research shows that any tree exhibiting 30% canopy loss or greater will not respond well to treatments, and should be promptly removed to mitigate risk. Here is a handy diagram displaying varying stages of canopy die-back from a Michigan State University study.

You can learn more about EAB and our treatment strategies here.

Remember: Removing your ash tree when it is healthy and not yet exhibiting canopy die-back is your best bet. Save money and save a tree care worker!
SET UP A FREE CONSULTATION
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Sources:
  • ​Michigan State University Extension: http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/promising_results_for_those_wanting_to_protect_their_trees_from_emerald_ash
  • Tree Care Industry Association: https://www.tcia.org/TCIA/Blog_Items/2017/Tree_Care_Related_Incidents_in_2016.aspx
23 Comments

Iron Deficiency in Trees is Easy to Treat!

8/9/2017

26 Comments

 
We're getting into late summer and iron chlorosis is rearing its ugly head for many trees in the Omaha area. This is a common disease in Eastern Nebraska that is easy to treat and cost effective if you plan on keeping your tree long term. Chlorosis is fatal if left untreated for multiple seasons. Don't delay addressing this issue! If you have a relatively young tree that is continually chlorotic, consider replacing it with a different species.
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50 Shades of Green - Symptoms of Chlorosis

In the early to mid-summer, you may notice your leaves turning an abnormal color like yellow or light green. This discoloration may occur on your whole tree, or just sections of the canopy. Look closely at the leaves and you'll spot green veins, like in this photo. In advanced stages of disease, leaves will begin to turn brown and fall off, and limbs will begin to die back. 
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What Causes Iron Chlorosis?

Generally, Nebraska's soils are alkaline (pH above 7). While our soil contains plenty of iron and manganese, the alkalinity makes the nutrients insoluble and unavailable to trees. Merely adding iron to the soil may not improve the condition of the tree. The problem can be further compounded by low oxygen conditions which are common in poorly drained soils or soil that has been compacted due to heavy foot traffic or construction.
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Chlorotic red maple.

What species are most susceptible?

Very common:
  • Pin oak
  • Silver maple
  • Red maple and hybrids (Red Sunset, Autumn Blaze, etc)
  • River Birch
    ​
Less common:
  • Cottonwood
  • Swamp white oak
  • Bald cypress
  • Ornamental juniper
  • Eastern white pine
    ​

Is Iron Deficiency Fatal?

Yes - iron deficiency kills trees. Trees need iron to manufacture chlorophyll. When a tree lacks chlorophyll, it can't produce adequate energy via photosynthesis and the tree will begin to decline. 

A tree in decline is also more susceptible to other diseases and insects. 

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Advanced stages of iron chlorosis.

Can I Prevent it? How do I treat it?

There are many methods of treating iron chlorosis, with some being more effective than others:
  • Water during dry spells, but don't overwater. Believe it or not - overwatering can CAUSE iron deficiency!
  • Mulch to improve soil conditions, but keep it under 2" deep and don't pile it against the trunk. No mulch volcanoes!
  • Don't fertilize. Excess nitrogen or phosphate can cause a tree to become chlorotic. Keep lawn fertilizers away from trees. Again, mulching under a tree instead of growing grass is a good solution.
  • Soil additives: You can amend the soil under the tree in a variety of methods. However, the tree may not respond to these methods until the following season, and research shows this method is ineffective especially for larger trees. Remember: Nebraska soil is rich in iron; the high pH makes it unavailable to trees.
  • Avoid planting susceptible species in alkaline and/or poorly drained soil. 
    ​
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The outer cells of these leaves are dying due to advanced chlorosis.

Our Treatment Method

Arbor Aesthetics uses a macro injection system to flush iron (and/or manganese, depending on the species) directly through your tree's vascular system via injection sites at the root flare. These treatments are performed in the fall and can provide up to three years of green, happy leaves for your tree! 
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GET A FREE ESTIMATE
26 Comments

Ash Flower Gall: No Harm, No foul!

4/24/2017

3 Comments

 
A teeny tiny little mite is responsible for those unsightly brown masses left behind over the winter on your ash tree!

​These are ash flower galls. The mites overwinter under the flower buds, then begin feeding in the spring. The feeding then stimulates plant growth under the flower, thereby creating a gall. The gall hardens and turns brown later in the season, then hangs on for the winter. 

Don't worry - the galls are purely an aesthetic issue and your tree won't be harmed. No need to control these mites! 
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3 Comments

CEDAR APPLE RUST PREVENTION BEGINS IN MARCH

2/19/2017

2 Comments

 
Do your tree's leaves look like this?
​Your tree might be suffering from Cedar Apple Rust!
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SET UP A FREE CONSULTATION NOW
Cedar Apple Rust is a highly infectious and fast-spreading fungal disease that can be prevented - but you must begin before leaves appear on your trees.
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​What trees are at risk?
Apple, Crab Apple, Pear, Hawthorn, Serviceberry and other fruit trees.

What should I look for?
Yellowish-orange colored lesions on the leaf, developing into darker spots in advanced stages. The infected leaves drop from the tree prematurely in the summer. Also look for lesions appearing on fruit later in the season. 

How does this harm my tree?
Because the infected leaves drop prematurely in the summer, the tree spends extra energy trying to replace the lost leaves. Repeated seasons of premature leaf-drop weaken the tree, making it susceptible to other diseases, and can eventually lead to its death.

Can I prevent it?
Yes! We offer preventative spray treatments that begin in early March. They must be applied before the buds open, so don't delay!

Where can I learn more?
The University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension has a detailed write-up here, including a list of disease resistant species.
SET UP A FREE CONSULTATION NOW
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2 Comments

Now offering insect & disease management services!

2/15/2017

8 Comments

 
Meet Andrew - our newest addition to the Arbor Aesthetics team! We're excited to announce that we're going beyond tree trimming and removal and will now be offering Insect & Disease Management services:
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  • Pine & spruce fungus
  • Crab apple rust (for crab apple, hawthorn
    ​and pear trees)
  • Emerald ash borer
  • Bur oak blight
  • Spider mites, bag worms, pine moths, and more
  • Anthracnose fungus
  • Iron deficiency
  • Deep root fertilization

    Do your trees suffer from any of these? Not sure what your tree is suffering from? Give us a call. We're here ​to help!
    ​
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SET UP A FREE CONSULTATION
8 Comments

Is your tree DOOMED? 5 symptoms of a haunted tree!

10/30/2016

39 Comments

 
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This Halloween, you might be heading to a haunted house to get your fix of ghouls, goblins and witches. But but you may only have to go as far as your own backyard to witness the horrors of imminent death. The death of your tree, that is! 

Here are 5 symptoms that your tree may be haunted, and if it is, "Who you gonna call?"  Arbor Aesthetics!

Oh, and that photo of the bloody tree? Don't be scared, that's just a Dragon Blood Tree! 

1)  Strangling
A stem girdling root could be strangling your tree and preventing the flow of nutrients through the trunk! These are often the result of improper planting or poor growing practices in the nursery. Ideally, these roots should be removed when the tree is planted, but you can also remove or sever the root later in its life to stop its growth. Planting a tree too deeply and soil compaction can also cause roots to grow in this manner. Click here for more information on removing girdling roots.
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University of Maryland
2)  Oozing
Slime flux, or bacterial wetwood, presents itself as dark streaks of liquid running down a tree, usually originating from a wound or a crack. It's the result of stress from things like soil compaction or internal damage. The slime is a defense mechanism and does no harm to the tree, however the slime may kill any grass or plants growing at the base of the tree.

You don't need to treat slime flux, but it's a symptom that shouldn't be ignored and it's an opportunity to address the cause of this condition so your tree won't be DOOOOOOOMED!
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University of Maryland
3)  Strange Growths
Fruiting bodies like the one pictured to the right are a sign of extensive internal decay. Fungi enter trees through bark wounds and dead branch stubs, then decay the heartwood and sapwood - the living wood of the tree that transfers nutrients up and down the trunk. You may often see them growing at the sight of where a branch was once removed improperly, which is why proper pruning is important. Remember to leave the branch collar intact when pruning limbs. More on that here.

​If you see fruiting bodies, it's time to call an arborist to inspect the structural integrity of your tree.
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University of California
4)  Gaping Wounds
Cracks and bark wounds are in invitation for bacterial and fungal infection. Bark is like skin - be gentle and treat it with care. Keep weed whackers away from the trunk. Do not drill holes into your tree for any reason. Make proper pruning cuts using sharp tools and educate yourself on how to make proper cuts so that the tree can seal over its wounds and prevent decay. 

​If you see a crack at a branch union like the one pictured or a crack in the trunk, steer clear of the area and call an arborist immediately!
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5)  Dead Limbs
Dying branches here and there are a normal part of a tree's life. However, if you start to notice excessive die-back of limbs, or notice that the tree is prematurely losing leaves from the outside in, it may be a sign of root system problems, insect infestation, or disease. The tree is unable to effectively feed its canopy and it's time to look at and address factors that could be causing this.
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Conclusion...
Okay, so your tree probably isn't "doomed," but it's important to know and be aware of symptoms of distress, like those listed above, so that you can take action to slow or prevent the death of your tree. Trees generally die a slow death, and more often than not, due to a number of factors. If in doubt, consult with an arborist for peace of mind!
FREE ARBORIST CONSULTATION

Sources: 
- https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/girdling-roots-trees-and-shrubs 
- http://extension.psu.edu/pests/plant-diseases/all-fact-sheets/wetwood-or-slime-flux
- ​http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74109.html
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Arbor Aesthetics Tree Service

Arbor Aesthetics Tree Service
6724 Irvington Rd, Omaha, NE 68122
402-408-5600
info@arboraesthetics.com
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