Arbor Aesthetics Tree Service - Professional Tree Trimming & Tree Removal - Omaha, NE
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Ash Flower Gall: No Harm, No foul!

4/24/2017

4 Comments

 
A teeny tiny little mite is responsible for those unsightly brown masses left behind over the winter on your ash tree!

​These are ash flower galls. The mites overwinter under the flower buds, then begin feeding in the spring. The feeding then stimulates plant growth under the flower, thereby creating a gall. The gall hardens and turns brown later in the season, then hangs on for the winter. 

Don't worry - the galls are purely an aesthetic issue and your tree won't be harmed. No need to control these mites! 
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Now offering insect & disease management services!

2/15/2017

17 Comments

 
Meet Andrew - our newest addition to the Arbor Aesthetics team! We're excited to announce that we're going beyond tree trimming and removal and will now be offering Insect & Disease Management services:
​
  • Pine & spruce fungus
  • Crab apple rust (for crab apple, hawthorn
    ​and pear trees)
  • Emerald ash borer
  • Bur oak blight
  • Spider mites, bag worms, pine moths, and more
  • Anthracnose fungus
  • Iron deficiency
  • Deep root fertilization

    Do your trees suffer from any of these? Not sure what your tree is suffering from? Give us a call. We're here ​to help!
    ​
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Mulch - but not too much!

6/25/2016

30 Comments

 
Mulch is a useful tool that benefits and beautifies your landscape in many ways, but you need to make sure you're installing it correctly in order for plants to reap those benefits instead of suffer. Unfortunately, many landscaping companies install "mulch volcanos," and we see so many instances of these around town that it's practically burned into our minds as the correct way to do it! WRONG! Some might find these volcanos to be visually appealing, but boy do they make us arborists cringe! 

The benefits of mulching:

  • Soil moisture retention.
  • Soil temperature control.
  • Reduces root competition between trees, weeds and grass.
  • Improves soil fertility over time (kind of like the forest floor!)
  • Reduces soil compaction from foot traffic.
  • Keeps weed whackers and lawn mowers away from the trunk and surface roots.
  • It looks nice. Unless you do it wrong. Mulch volcanos: Ugly. Mulch volcanos: BAD!

How to correctly install mulch:

  • Keep mulch away from the trunk. Bark that is constantly damp is an invitation for disease, fungus and insects.
  • Keep it shallow. No more than 2-3", please! 
  • Expose the root collar. Make sure the flare is visible at the bottom of the tree. Surface roots can actually grow upward, girdling the trunk and strangling the tree. Yes! STRANGLING! 
  • Take it out the drip line (if you can). While this may not be feasible for all landscapes, it's most beneficial for the tree. As a bonus, you don't have to mow under the tree, exposing surface roots to lawn mower damage. It can be a real struggle to grow grass under a tree, anyway! Give up and install mulch!
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30 Comments

Emerald Ash Borer: Do you know what to look for?

3/9/2016

3 Comments

 
The Emerald Ash Borer hasn't officially been detected in Omaha, but it's wise to know what to look for. Here is a great instructional video on how to identify EAB damage before it's too late. To summarize, here are a few things to look for:
  • A thinning canopy
  • Woodpecker damage
  • Cracking branches and vertically splitting bark
  • D-shaped exit holes that measure 1/8"

​As always, consult a certified arborist if you suspect infestation, as these symptoms can also be caused by other insects. The earlier we can detect it, the higher the survival rate!
EAB Exit Holes
D-shaped exit holes measuring 1/8"

Watch out for scammers!

The Nebraska Forest Service has issued a press release (3/8/16) warning homeowners of scammers surfacing in Nebraska to sell EAB treatments. 

'The Nebraska Forest Service (NFS) is encouraging homeowners to beware of solicitors promoting tree services and products related to Emerald Ash Borer (EAB). Unconfirmed reports have surfaced from around the state of person(s) providing misinformation, or claiming they will eradicate the invasive insect through treatment or removal of ash trees. These “companies” may be uninsured, unlicensed or request payment upfront—all possible indications of a scam.

“If the treatments seem too good to be true, that’s likely the case,” says NFS Forest Health Specialist Jennifer Morris. “Familiarizing yourself with EAB and what options are out there is an excellent way to sniff out possible scams.” 
​
Read the full press release here.
Splitting bark
Vertically splitting bark

Source: 
http://entomologytoday.org/2016/03/07/heres-how-to-inspect-your-trees-for-emerald-ash-borer/
3 Comments

De-Icing Salt Harms Trees!

1/14/2016

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Sometimes, the solution to one problem creates a problem elsewhere. While road salt can keep us safe on the roads during icy weather, did you know that it can have detrimental effects on trees and landscape plants? Even worse, symptoms from this winter may not appear until late summer or even years later. Not only can salt damage foliage, it can stunt tree growth and in severe cases, can lead to death.

“Salt deposits migrate to the stems, buds and roots of trees,” explains Tchukki Andersen, BCMA, CTSP*, staff arborist with TCIA. “This causes disfigured foliage, stunted growth and severe decline in tree health. Salt runoff washes from pavement into the ground, increasing salt levels in the soil.”

Fir trees
Fir trees exhibiting road salt damage. Photo courtesy of Michigan State University Extension.
The Tree Care Industry Association offers the following suggestions to prevent tree damage:
  • Avoid use of de-icing salt unless necessary. Mix salt with abrasives such as sand, cinders and ash.
  • Use alternative de-icing salts such as calcium chloride and calcium magnesium acetate.
  • Improve drainage of soils. Add organic matter such as activated charcoal or gypsum, and thoroughly leach salt residues from the soil.
  • Erect barriers between pavement and plants.
  • Plant trees in locations away from any type of salt spray.
  • Plant salt-resistant trees in areas where high salt spray is inevitable, i.e. near walkways, driveways or roads.
  • Provide adequate irrigation and mulching to reduce water loss.
  • Prune properly and add fertilizers to correct nutrient deficiency as indicated in spring soil testing.
  • Control tree damaging diseases and pest infestations.
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Sources: De-Icing Salt Can Harm Landscape Plants: http://tcia.org/blog/business/de-icing-salt-can-harm-landscape-plants
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Tree Owner's Manual

11/19/2015

3 Comments

 
Don't you wish more things in life came with instruction manuals (like your kids)? It's easy to assume that trees are invincible totems of lumber, but they're living things that require at least some basic knowledge to care for.

Luckily, your trees DO come with a manual: "The Tree Owner's Manual​" written by the U.S. Forest Service. We highly recommend bookmarking this PDF file for your reference!

What's in the manual?
  • Bringing your tree home from the nursery
  • Planting instructions
  • Watering information
  • Mulching
  • How to address issues early on
  • Tree health & safety
  • Protecting your tree from construction
  • How to hire an arborist
  • Tree types
  • Maintenance and pruning
  • Removal and disposal
  • Troubleshooting
  • Selecting a tree at the nursery
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3 Comments

Will cutting into a tree's roots harm the tree?

11/3/2015

22 Comments

 
We received a call today from someone trying to install pavers under a silver maple tree. If you own a silver maple, you know these trees produce some mean surface roots! He asked if chopping up these roots to make room for the pavers would harm the tree. We're so glad he asked! The short answer is "YES!" Here's why:

Roots serve two purposes:

  1. Providing structure
    Trees are made stable by their root system. Its main structural roots, which are larger, begin close to the trunk then flare out. This is called the "root flare." The closer the roots are to the tree, the more important they are for keeping the tree upright. Cutting these roots can lead to instability.
  2. Feeding the tree
    These smaller, fibrous roots absorb water and minerals to be transported into the tree. Severing or removing these roots will harm the tree, as will compacting the root system by way of things like construction, heavy foot traffic, and - ahem - pavers. 
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Most of a tree's roots travel horizontally and are found 6-12" below the surface.

Are pavers a good solution to my problem?

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Tempted to cut them? Think again!
​​In this case, the homeowner wanted to pave an area where grass wouldn't grow around the tree roots. This is a common issue, but consider the fact that you are creating an unnatural environment for the tree by doing so. Root systems are more sensitive than one might think. Pavers (or even river rock) absorb heat, and holding heat close to the root system can harm the tree. These landscaping "solutions" also pose the risk of compacting the soil and depriving the roots of oxygen, a necessary component for transporting nutrients throughout the tree. For this same reason, trees that are planted in urban environments surrounded by concrete don't tend to thrive. 

What's the best alternative to pavers or river rock?

Mulch! Trying to maintain grass until a tree with heavy surface roots is a battle not worth fighting. Lightly mulch under the tree out to the drip line for a neater appearance that requires little to no maintenance. Mulch no more than 2" deep and keep it away from the trunk.

What if I have to sever a root?

If you MUST, cut a root cleanly with a sharp saw, and cut it straight across to leave as small and round of a wound as possible. Avoid chopping and tearing the roots, or cutting along the length of the root. 
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Mulching is a low-maintenance method of covering an area where grass won't grow. Stop fighting the battle!

How do I know if I've caused damage?

It may take several years for a tree to show signs of damage. Look for:
  • Small, pale colored leaves
  • Leaves turning brown on the edges or shedding early
  • Tips of the limbs dying over time

We're grateful for opportunities like this to teach others about proper tree care! Another tree saved - we love what we do! ​​

Do you have a question about tree care? Email us - we're here to help!
​ 
Ask an Arborist
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Tree tip die-back - a sign of decline!
22 Comments

What's up with my bur oak? Could be Bur Oak Blight!

9/15/2015

1 Comment

 
We're seeing it a lot this year. Bur oaks, coveted for their resilience and strength, are looking sickly. Bur Oak Blight could be the culprit, but don't panic - we can help!

What is Bur Oak Blight?

Bur Oak Blight is a fungal disease that affects bur oaks in the midwest. It's a fairly new disease, emerging in the 1990's. We speculate that the particularly rainy spring and summer is making our friend 'BOB' feel a little too at-home here in Omaha. More specifically, if the weather is cool and rainy while new leaf shoots are expanding, the leaves could already be infected with the fungus, then show symptoms later in August. 
Bur Oak Blight
Interestingly, severe symptoms of BOB have been observed only on Quercus macrocarpa var. oliviformis, a variety of bur oak that produces smaller acorns. BOB occurs primarily on naturally established trees, and especially on mature trees on upland sites that appear to be remnants of savannah forests.

What are the symptoms?

  • Purple-brown lesions along the middle vein of the leaf
  • Wedge-shaped areas of yellowing or dieback
  • Leaves turning brown and curling
  • Black pustules at the base of the leaf stalk
  • Dead leaves remaining on the tree through the winter
  • Symptoms typically appear in late July, August and September

What can we do?

Bur Oak Blight Leaves
If you suspect BOB has paid you a visit, it's time to call an arborist. We will come assess the damage and check for any secondary infections, then prescribe a fungicidal treatment plan (leaf sprays and/or trunk injection) to treat the infection. These treatments will need to be administered in the spring (May or June) to reduce the effects of BOB in the later summer.

SOURCES
Update on Bur Oak Blight and a Potential Fungicide Treatment
Bur Oak Blight
1 Comment

Three Reasons Homeowners should leave tree work to the professionals

6/25/2015

60 Comments

 
It's National Safety Month! We and the Tree Care Industry Association​ encourage you to leave tree work to the professionals! Even if the work may seem straightforward or easy, the risk is often not worth the money saved.

Click here for three reasons homeowners should leave tree work to the professionals!


60 Comments

DIY Tree Pruning

5/12/2015

145 Comments

 
Owning a tree service, we spend a lot of time looking at trees, even when we're not on the job. Yesterday, we spotted some very unfortunate pruning work that just happened to be in the parking lot of a major nursery here in Omaha. We cannot stress enough the importance of quality tree pruning. Seemingly small errors, like the ones pictured below, can lead to serious consequences down the road.
DIY Pruning?
  • Educate yourself
  • Take your time
  • Obtain proper tools
  • Ask for help if needed

How NOT to Prune Live Branches

Below are examples of flush cuts, torn bark, and nicked adjacent branches, all of which challenge the tree's "sealing" mechanisms and cause additional stress. Remember - trees don't heal - they seal!

How to Properly Prune Live Branches

This information is taken from the USDA Forest Service's brochure "How to Prune Trees." It's a great resource!

Target the Cut
To find the proper place to cut a branch, look for the branch collar that grows from the stem tissue at the underside of the base of the branch (Fig. 6A). On the upper surface, there is usually a branch bark ridge that runs (more or less) parallel to the branch angle, along the stem of the tree. A proper pruning cut does not damage either the branch bark ridge or the branch collar. 

A proper cut begins just outside the branch bark ridge and angles down away from the stem of the tree, avoiding injury to the branch collar (Fig. 6B). Make the cut as close as possible to the stem in the branch axil, but outside the branch bark ridge, so that stem tissue is not injured and the wound can seal in the shortest time possible. If the cut is too far from the stem, leaving a branch stub, the branch tissue usually dies and woundwood forms from the stem tissue. Wound closure is delayed because the woundwood must seal over the stub that was left.

When pruning small branches with hand pruners, make sure the tools are sharp enough to cut the branches cleanly without tearing. Branches large enough to require saws should be supported with one hand while the cuts are made. If the branch is too large to support, make a three-step pruning cut (Fig. 6C) to prevent bark ripping (Fig. 7C). 
Figure 6
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6A - Targeting the Cut
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6B - Cutting a Small Branch
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6C - Cutting a Large Branch

Cut in Three Steps
  1. The first cut is a shallow notch made on the underside of the branch, outside the branch collar. This cut will prevent a falling branch from tearing the stem tissue as it pulls away from the tree. 
  2. The second cut should be outside the first cut, all the way through the branch, leaving a short stub. 
  3. The stub is then cut just outside the branch bark ridge/branch collar, completing the operation.

Check your Work
The quality of pruning cuts can be evaluated by examining pruning wounds after one growing season. A concentric ring of woundwood will form from proper pruning cuts (Fig. 6B). 

Flush cuts made inside the branch bark ridge or branch collar, result in pronounced development of woundwood on the sides of the pruning wounds with very little woundwood forming on the top or bottom (Fig. 7D). As described above, stub cuts result in the death of the remaining branch and woundwood forms around the base from stem tissues (Fig. 7E).

Cuts that HARM

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7C - Bark Ripping
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7D - Flush Cutting
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7E - Stub Cutting
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    Amy Grewe, Certified Arborist & Co-Owner 

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Arbor Aesthetics Tree Service

Arbor Aesthetics Tree Service
6724 Irvington Rd, Omaha, NE 68122
402-408-5600
info@arboraesthetics.com
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